Here I was so worried about Christmas break and it's turning out just swimmingly!!! I started volunteering at an orphanage and met one of the managers on Tues. We went to what she appropriately calls the "African Starbucks" and then daladalaed to the girls' home (she doesn't like the word orphanage). There is a lot of legal stuff going on as she is trying to help another orphanage, but there are people who are there for the wrong reasons, so it's complicated. But this girls' home is a two story, very spacious, girls' home with toys, puzzles, and 1 hr of school each day. They know very little English so it's a good opportunity for me to practice my Swahili. But they decorated a Christmas tree with homemade ornaments. I might get them to make some for my tree :) I taught them Away in a Manger with hand motions and we're going to sing it at the Christmas luncheon! Christmas day they're having a potluck with carols and we're giving each kid a stuffed animal. So my problem of spending Christmas by myself is null AND what a cool way to spend it! It will be a memorable one! The girls are so lovable. When I first walked in, they said "upendo," love. They were so fascinated by my mole and my flip flop earrings. Many of the schools here require girls to shave their heads to keep uniformity, but Tammy (the woman who helps out/owns) believes girls should be girls and got all their ears pierced, does their hair, and got them all sorts of dresses and skirts. Mitumba (2nd hand clothing) is a wonderful thing! I got a nice blouse there for less than $4. We played hopskotch, but since we didn't have chalk we used their shoes and lined them up in different formations. We did some puzzles, which I haven't done in so long and brought back the days of the puzzle board my dad made me that I stored under my bed. I was most impressed when they had lunch. One of the older girls brought it to each girl, they all said thank you, and waited for each girl to receive her lunch and then prayed together. They are becoming a family and Tammy only wants to introduce kids in small numbers to keep the familial atmosphere.
Today when we went to get the toys, I thought we were handpicking 200 toys out, but a guy at the Mitumba market said he'd give us 100 for 100,000 about $80, so it ended up just being a day of shopping and a girls' day out. AND I met a volunteer who 1) is 21 2) FEMALE 3) going to be here 3 years 4) has lots of other volunteer friends and 5) likes to go out and do stuff so YAYAYAAY! I got a dress for the wedding in Zanzibar (long and with sleeves), and stuff for my awaited Christmas tree, donated by one of my piano student's parents, like Christmas lights for $4 and they're even awesome with different settings, little ornament balls, and tinsel. SO excited!
Came home and Collin (my "nephew") was running around naked. Oh to be a kid again! I cooked a great meal of Indian spiced fried pancakes and vermicelli vegetable turkey broth soup. It's so great to have time to cook. I've missed it! Oh and we found little plums today and went to a really good RAW place for ciabatta sandwiches and smoothies (Mom and Dad, I'm def taking you here!) So it ended up being a really good day!
Tomorrow bright and early, we take off for Lake Eyasi to see one of the last hunter-gatherer tribes and to camp at a beautiful lake. Super excited! Then it's Christmas caroling and then the CLIMB OF MT. Meru!!!!! Will update afterwards :)
Break is wonderful! And I was worried about not going to Lake Eyasi today. Then some people cancelled on Meru but we got a new crew together :) Then Zanzibar accommodation was really scaring me since it's peak season and everything is full. BUT we found a woman couchsurfer who's 25 and owns a beach resort and shares a house with the chef and is .5m from a quiet, coconut tree, white sand, no creepy beach boys (her words) and only 40 mins from town instead of 2 hrs like we were looking at! And of course is free.
I'm still working a bit and Umoja has A LOT of stuff going on right now, but the new website should be up by the end of break hopefully. Check out the Facebook page I created. Search Umoja Arts Project!
Oh and The Book Thief is an excellent book, highly recommend it! Gonna go finish it :)
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Sunday, December 12, 2010
One day and 18.5 hours
Until Christmas break! Though tomorrow is a very lax day and I just have one lesson on Tues. As of tonight, I am solo for the next two and a half weeks. My housemate is going back home to Sweden (will miss you!). Luckily the plans are coming together and I finally have options for Christmas. I'm going to keep things open-ended for now. Hence how I finally have time to journal.
Thanksgiving was a huge success!!! We had a Thanksgiving potluck style on the day of with all the traditional foods like a turkey, yams, cranberry sauce, pumpkin and pecan pie, and stuffing. I was thrilled considering you usually can't find yams, pecans, or cranberries here :) But being a potluck, we also had nontraditional foods like gazelle meat, tomatoes with cheese and basil, green salad, and more I've forgotten already. It was great to celebrate with ex-pats who understand Thanksgiving and cool to see my Swedish housemate love an American holiday (how could you not!).
But then, I decided as an early Christmas present, I would make Thanksgiving dinner for my house staff. I've never paid so much for any type of food in my life, but it was so worth it! I attempted to pray in Swahili, granted it was short, and went around in a circle and said what we were thankful for. I was so happy. I could taste my dad's cooking, but it was me who made it! :) A 7.22 kilo turkey, cranberry sauce made from sweetened craisins and cranberry juice, garlic mashed potatoes and gravy (dad's recipe), and stuffing with homemade bread crumbs, it was such a success and I have a new appreciation of people like my dad that cook the whole meal by themselves! I was in the kitchen from 9 AM to 3:30 PM, but they all enjoyed it so much and it was so cool to share such a cultural thing.
Socially, it is still quite difficult to make friends. I have lots of acquaintances, but few people I could just call up to hang out, especially females. But I've decided over break I'm just going to go to things cuz that's how I'll make friends and I do have a travel buddy so that's really exciting! WE're going to see the Hatzabe tribe, one of the last hunter-gatherers and you go hunting with them using arrows and running and all, and it's on a beautiful lake so it will be a nice getaway. This will be followed by a strenuous climb up Mt. Meru 4,000 some meters and I've heard the climb is harder than Kili as they call Mt. Kilimanjaro here, but a much more beautiful hike since it's less touristy. I'm doing both so we'll see. I'm going to volunteer at an orphanage a few days and I hope to take some day trips to the nearby parks. I'm still not entirely sure what I'm doing for Christmas, but I've been invited to a few things, some in Arusha with expats and one with my one Tanzanian female friend in their place in Moshi. My only thing is they're going for 3 days and I may feel a bit...not bored but isolated maybe is a good word? Lots of restaurants are having stuff here so I think my first choice would be to stay in town and hang out with people but we'll see. And then it's off to Longai, the only active volcano! And then Nina comes back and that'll be another post, but I'll try to be better at updating now that work has slowed down considerably.
The end-of-term concert went SO well! I was so proud of all of them and have received nothing but positive feedback. And our goal of filling the church (~200 people) was attained!!! To see the progress of the Umoja Ensemble kids made my heart literally go pitter-patter.
I went to a contemporary dance piece last night. I won't lie, I surely had my doubts due to my experiences with contemp dance in the past...but, this was AMAZING! Shirtless, VERY built, Tanzanian and Madagascar men doing headstands, jumping 3 ft in the air, balancing on each other, flips, the whole nine yards, and to think it was on cement!!
Oh and I had the BEST haircut complete w/ steak sandwiches, sweet corn which I didn't even know you could get here, and a shot of Zambuka, all for less than 15 bucks!
Well I'm off to a benefit concert. Check out the Sowers group, contemporary African music, really good!
Thanksgiving was a huge success!!! We had a Thanksgiving potluck style on the day of with all the traditional foods like a turkey, yams, cranberry sauce, pumpkin and pecan pie, and stuffing. I was thrilled considering you usually can't find yams, pecans, or cranberries here :) But being a potluck, we also had nontraditional foods like gazelle meat, tomatoes with cheese and basil, green salad, and more I've forgotten already. It was great to celebrate with ex-pats who understand Thanksgiving and cool to see my Swedish housemate love an American holiday (how could you not!).
But then, I decided as an early Christmas present, I would make Thanksgiving dinner for my house staff. I've never paid so much for any type of food in my life, but it was so worth it! I attempted to pray in Swahili, granted it was short, and went around in a circle and said what we were thankful for. I was so happy. I could taste my dad's cooking, but it was me who made it! :) A 7.22 kilo turkey, cranberry sauce made from sweetened craisins and cranberry juice, garlic mashed potatoes and gravy (dad's recipe), and stuffing with homemade bread crumbs, it was such a success and I have a new appreciation of people like my dad that cook the whole meal by themselves! I was in the kitchen from 9 AM to 3:30 PM, but they all enjoyed it so much and it was so cool to share such a cultural thing.
Socially, it is still quite difficult to make friends. I have lots of acquaintances, but few people I could just call up to hang out, especially females. But I've decided over break I'm just going to go to things cuz that's how I'll make friends and I do have a travel buddy so that's really exciting! WE're going to see the Hatzabe tribe, one of the last hunter-gatherers and you go hunting with them using arrows and running and all, and it's on a beautiful lake so it will be a nice getaway. This will be followed by a strenuous climb up Mt. Meru 4,000 some meters and I've heard the climb is harder than Kili as they call Mt. Kilimanjaro here, but a much more beautiful hike since it's less touristy. I'm doing both so we'll see. I'm going to volunteer at an orphanage a few days and I hope to take some day trips to the nearby parks. I'm still not entirely sure what I'm doing for Christmas, but I've been invited to a few things, some in Arusha with expats and one with my one Tanzanian female friend in their place in Moshi. My only thing is they're going for 3 days and I may feel a bit...not bored but isolated maybe is a good word? Lots of restaurants are having stuff here so I think my first choice would be to stay in town and hang out with people but we'll see. And then it's off to Longai, the only active volcano! And then Nina comes back and that'll be another post, but I'll try to be better at updating now that work has slowed down considerably.
The end-of-term concert went SO well! I was so proud of all of them and have received nothing but positive feedback. And our goal of filling the church (~200 people) was attained!!! To see the progress of the Umoja Ensemble kids made my heart literally go pitter-patter.
I went to a contemporary dance piece last night. I won't lie, I surely had my doubts due to my experiences with contemp dance in the past...but, this was AMAZING! Shirtless, VERY built, Tanzanian and Madagascar men doing headstands, jumping 3 ft in the air, balancing on each other, flips, the whole nine yards, and to think it was on cement!!
Oh and I had the BEST haircut complete w/ steak sandwiches, sweet corn which I didn't even know you could get here, and a shot of Zambuka, all for less than 15 bucks!
Well I'm off to a benefit concert. Check out the Sowers group, contemporary African music, really good!
Friday, November 12, 2010
Sokoni mwenyewe!
The title translates as at the market by myself! This was my first time going without a Tanzanian, so it was definitely an accomplishment. My Swahili is good enough I don't need a translator and I even managed to receive "African" prices, usually mzungus get ripped off. But let me explain the experience from start to finish.
For starters, Tanzanians are very friendly towards foreigners. Perhaps I'm optimistic, but I honestly feel they are genuinely just friendly not wanting more than that whether that means financially or sexually. Sure there are Africans who say how beautiful I am or ask for money, but in general, they just want to be helpful, especially once they realize you live here and aren't a tourist. On top of this innate friendliness, I was wearing a shirt for the Dar Rotary Marathon (I ran a 9k) so of course that sparked conversation with a guy in rainbow-colored toesocks no less. It had just rained so the streets were very muddy and my legs soon turned to match the muddy puddles my flip flops encountered and the black skirt I was wearing.
Once we got to the market, people came up to us left and right offering us this and that, but I had learned from past experiences that outside people rip you off hardcore and the mud and puddles further discouraged me. So we walk inside to the most beautiful, large tomatoes. But upon buying them (after haggling of course to almost half-price), they then pointed to carrots, green peppers, onions, etc etc etc. but when you buy things from the same seller you usually manage a "discount." I put this in quotation marks because sometimes they'll give you one free or as in the case of today, I received six " of the best beans" just random beans. A guy who spoke English began to ask us if we wanted this, that and the other thing, but after he let us try a passion fruit and then charged us 500 shillings, I realized he was going to try to give us a whole tour of the market and then charge us for it. So I said hapana asante (no thank you) and quickly strided off, returning to my normal place where I have gone with Saa Nane and Janet (the Tanzanians).
After being disappointed to find out red lettuce had gone out of season, we bought some "normal" lettuce and then began the store coming to us. Bananas? Avocados? Spices? etc etc. Soon a women doting bananas on her head and unripe avocados was headed towards us. We explained the avocadoes weren't ripe, but she had us hold the unripe avocado and quickly jettisoned to her stand to find ripe avocados for the mzungus. Eventually, I gave into a huge thing of bananas for less than $2.50 when I knew it shouldn't be more than $1.50, but she said she'd give us a "discount" and gave us a "free avocado." But when I handed her 3000 tsh instead of 3500 she got very demanding give me give me give me. Whoa lady I'm digging in my change purse, hold your horses or your bananas..sorry couldn't resist. Anyway, I successfully found black beans, 2 kilos of oranges for fresh-squeezed orange juice, zucchini with a "discount" of the smallest zucchini you have ever seen, two small cabbages, fresh rosemary (after buying some in a small packet for more at the spice house, oh well, now we have lots) and I'm sure there is more I can't remember.
A guy we met the first time we were there who introduced himself as Simba and is a hip-hop artist recognized us and showed us where we could find a good price on vegetable oil (the stuff is not cheap! 4 dollars for a liter (okay that's super expensive for here). On the way he tried to show us his rafiki (friends) who were selling spices, but I told him we already had spices at home (and I found oregano at a spice house on the way for less than 90 cents for a little packet). After telling us that the oil in Kilimanjaro water bottles was the same as Fresh Fry (the company here) just cheaper and then asking differences in prices and the Fresh Fry being a bit cheaper, I realized both were ripping us off and went to get change for Simba. At that store I saw oil cheaper than either that they had offered and bought it there. Granted this is not nearly as exciting in narrative form, but the chaos of two mzungus being attacked by ten sellers at once is indescribable. I wanted to take pictures so badly, but didn't want to risk my camera being stolen, though I have had not even suspicious activity, knock on wood. Nina carrying an unzipped backpack because the pineapple wouldn't fit, and me with three plastic bags, we decided it would be best to daladala back home (a minivan that serves as a bus here) instead of walk.
Seeing people with gallon-sized oil containers, a blind man, and huge bags, made the saying I heard an ISM teacher who is a Luther 2007 alum (talk about small world! She was in the first Projects for Peace group with Katy!) say earlier this week when I asked her "Why Africa?" (this is her third time living here). She responded as such, "Here the people are just so real. I lived in Europe right after I graduated and it was so cushy. Anything i wanted was available, but here you really have to make due." This illuminated everything I have seen this week in a new light and it made me realize how true that is. Granted I don't think she knows about the exorbitant-priced grocery store in Njiro that truly does have everything, but Tanzanians really do. Carrying pounds of you-name-it on the womens' heads usually with babies tied on their backs, the men pushing wheelbarrows or strapping it onto their bicycles, life here is really real.
I think I mentioned this in an earlier post of two instances when I would have probably just thrown an adaptor out after blew a fuse and buy another one for less than ten dollars. But Saa Nane clipped the wire where it had broken and somehow managed to retie it and voila, good as new. Or my hiking pants that I had duct-taped on a backcountry trip this summer when they ripped right down the butt. I finally decided I was going to fix them, but I'm embarrassed to say, the sewing was too complex. My Swahili teacher stopped over and not only mended them, but literally the seam was perfect and they are as good as new now. The fact that a man knows how to sew and well at that really surprised me! But here people regardless of sex have to know how to live and do things themselves. Plumbers, dry cleaners, menders, etc. don't exist, at least not commonly. I'm not saying one should or shouldn't live with or without these things. But it's just a new experience and teaching me so much. Anyway back to the market story...
I came back home and asked Janet (our house cleaner/laundress) for the prices on stuff, thinking I had been ripped off, but I hadn't! And some things I even got a bargain on, coming from a Tanzanian! I was very proud, I won't lie. And then the Italian in me came out and I made fresh bruschetta sans olive oil :( (we're out and I didn't know it, another very expensive thing here) on toasted fresh bread complimented with ripe watermelon. YUM! Okay time to teach and tomorrow I have my first choir practice, SO excited!! I have missed choir SOOO much and to direct it will be really cool!
For starters, Tanzanians are very friendly towards foreigners. Perhaps I'm optimistic, but I honestly feel they are genuinely just friendly not wanting more than that whether that means financially or sexually. Sure there are Africans who say how beautiful I am or ask for money, but in general, they just want to be helpful, especially once they realize you live here and aren't a tourist. On top of this innate friendliness, I was wearing a shirt for the Dar Rotary Marathon (I ran a 9k) so of course that sparked conversation with a guy in rainbow-colored toesocks no less. It had just rained so the streets were very muddy and my legs soon turned to match the muddy puddles my flip flops encountered and the black skirt I was wearing.
Once we got to the market, people came up to us left and right offering us this and that, but I had learned from past experiences that outside people rip you off hardcore and the mud and puddles further discouraged me. So we walk inside to the most beautiful, large tomatoes. But upon buying them (after haggling of course to almost half-price), they then pointed to carrots, green peppers, onions, etc etc etc. but when you buy things from the same seller you usually manage a "discount." I put this in quotation marks because sometimes they'll give you one free or as in the case of today, I received six " of the best beans" just random beans. A guy who spoke English began to ask us if we wanted this, that and the other thing, but after he let us try a passion fruit and then charged us 500 shillings, I realized he was going to try to give us a whole tour of the market and then charge us for it. So I said hapana asante (no thank you) and quickly strided off, returning to my normal place where I have gone with Saa Nane and Janet (the Tanzanians).
After being disappointed to find out red lettuce had gone out of season, we bought some "normal" lettuce and then began the store coming to us. Bananas? Avocados? Spices? etc etc. Soon a women doting bananas on her head and unripe avocados was headed towards us. We explained the avocadoes weren't ripe, but she had us hold the unripe avocado and quickly jettisoned to her stand to find ripe avocados for the mzungus. Eventually, I gave into a huge thing of bananas for less than $2.50 when I knew it shouldn't be more than $1.50, but she said she'd give us a "discount" and gave us a "free avocado." But when I handed her 3000 tsh instead of 3500 she got very demanding give me give me give me. Whoa lady I'm digging in my change purse, hold your horses or your bananas..sorry couldn't resist. Anyway, I successfully found black beans, 2 kilos of oranges for fresh-squeezed orange juice, zucchini with a "discount" of the smallest zucchini you have ever seen, two small cabbages, fresh rosemary (after buying some in a small packet for more at the spice house, oh well, now we have lots) and I'm sure there is more I can't remember.
A guy we met the first time we were there who introduced himself as Simba and is a hip-hop artist recognized us and showed us where we could find a good price on vegetable oil (the stuff is not cheap! 4 dollars for a liter (okay that's super expensive for here). On the way he tried to show us his rafiki (friends) who were selling spices, but I told him we already had spices at home (and I found oregano at a spice house on the way for less than 90 cents for a little packet). After telling us that the oil in Kilimanjaro water bottles was the same as Fresh Fry (the company here) just cheaper and then asking differences in prices and the Fresh Fry being a bit cheaper, I realized both were ripping us off and went to get change for Simba. At that store I saw oil cheaper than either that they had offered and bought it there. Granted this is not nearly as exciting in narrative form, but the chaos of two mzungus being attacked by ten sellers at once is indescribable. I wanted to take pictures so badly, but didn't want to risk my camera being stolen, though I have had not even suspicious activity, knock on wood. Nina carrying an unzipped backpack because the pineapple wouldn't fit, and me with three plastic bags, we decided it would be best to daladala back home (a minivan that serves as a bus here) instead of walk.
Seeing people with gallon-sized oil containers, a blind man, and huge bags, made the saying I heard an ISM teacher who is a Luther 2007 alum (talk about small world! She was in the first Projects for Peace group with Katy!) say earlier this week when I asked her "Why Africa?" (this is her third time living here). She responded as such, "Here the people are just so real. I lived in Europe right after I graduated and it was so cushy. Anything i wanted was available, but here you really have to make due." This illuminated everything I have seen this week in a new light and it made me realize how true that is. Granted I don't think she knows about the exorbitant-priced grocery store in Njiro that truly does have everything, but Tanzanians really do. Carrying pounds of you-name-it on the womens' heads usually with babies tied on their backs, the men pushing wheelbarrows or strapping it onto their bicycles, life here is really real.
I think I mentioned this in an earlier post of two instances when I would have probably just thrown an adaptor out after blew a fuse and buy another one for less than ten dollars. But Saa Nane clipped the wire where it had broken and somehow managed to retie it and voila, good as new. Or my hiking pants that I had duct-taped on a backcountry trip this summer when they ripped right down the butt. I finally decided I was going to fix them, but I'm embarrassed to say, the sewing was too complex. My Swahili teacher stopped over and not only mended them, but literally the seam was perfect and they are as good as new now. The fact that a man knows how to sew and well at that really surprised me! But here people regardless of sex have to know how to live and do things themselves. Plumbers, dry cleaners, menders, etc. don't exist, at least not commonly. I'm not saying one should or shouldn't live with or without these things. But it's just a new experience and teaching me so much. Anyway back to the market story...
I came back home and asked Janet (our house cleaner/laundress) for the prices on stuff, thinking I had been ripped off, but I hadn't! And some things I even got a bargain on, coming from a Tanzanian! I was very proud, I won't lie. And then the Italian in me came out and I made fresh bruschetta sans olive oil :( (we're out and I didn't know it, another very expensive thing here) on toasted fresh bread complimented with ripe watermelon. YUM! Okay time to teach and tomorrow I have my first choir practice, SO excited!! I have missed choir SOOO much and to direct it will be really cool!
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Happy Halloween..a bit of nostalgia
I'm trying to update more regularly so here goes. Not being in the US for a holiday definitely makes someone nostalgic quite easily! A couple people dressed up here, but without the little trick-or-treaters at my door, the jack-o-lanterns, and numerous costumes it's not the same. Of course I did my part and dressed up. Once as born to be wild, but then the electricity went out and we couldn't find a ride so we ended up not going out, but for the Halloween outreach concert (see next paragraph) I dressed up as tickled pink (photos soon). We went out last night and granted the costumes I saw were definitely the most amount of clothing I've seen on women in awhile, but none were clever. The entry fee was cheaper if you dressed up, but they didn't "accept that costume." So the only costume I saw that was worth noting was a Voldemort costume, dressed in green for Slytherin of course, and a mask on the back of his head. Another note about the entry fee. I was amazed they could charge the equivalent of $7.50 for an entry fee with no drink or anything included in such a developing country. I only pay that much for salsaing in Minneapolis! But I have managed to get a pumpkin and am going to show my Swahili teacher how to carve a pumpkin so it'll be Halloween in some way. I hear it's really cold there. Here it isn't quite sweltering (especially compared to Cairo) but it's definitely warm and I"m told will stay like this till May. Tanktops and shorts basically year round now. Except mosquitoes are getting really bad at night!
So yesterday we had an outreach concert at a place called the Plaster House where kids are recovering after burns or injuries involving casts (hence the name). The turnout was incredible. While there was definitely room for improvement in terms of organization and what not, the music itself was incredible. Sure, some was ability, but it was more the idea that outreach students (Tanzanians) and the wealthiest expats were not only in one room, but supporting each other, listening to everyone's accomplishments. The most powerful was at the end when all the instruments and voices, regardless of who, joined together in singing the national anthem. Perhaps, I come across as race-heavy, but here, the disparity between wazungu (white people) and Tanzanians is so vast and it is VERY rare that they mingle. While we weren't quite to the point of mingling, they were playing something that universally everyone can appreciate: the gift of music. Music transcends language. It doesn't matter if the words are understood . A familiar melody of music is a bridge between any culture.
So yesterday we had an outreach concert at a place called the Plaster House where kids are recovering after burns or injuries involving casts (hence the name). The turnout was incredible. While there was definitely room for improvement in terms of organization and what not, the music itself was incredible. Sure, some was ability, but it was more the idea that outreach students (Tanzanians) and the wealthiest expats were not only in one room, but supporting each other, listening to everyone's accomplishments. The most powerful was at the end when all the instruments and voices, regardless of who, joined together in singing the national anthem. Perhaps, I come across as race-heavy, but here, the disparity between wazungu (white people) and Tanzanians is so vast and it is VERY rare that they mingle. While we weren't quite to the point of mingling, they were playing something that universally everyone can appreciate: the gift of music. Music transcends language. It doesn't matter if the words are understood . A familiar melody of music is a bridge between any culture.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Land of the Pyramids and Sphinx
Well I'm in Cairo! Have been for nine days now. Cairo is one of those cities where the people are wonderful, but the sites are..limited. Once you've seen them, there's not a whole lot to do during the day. Nighttime is a different story. THe trip started out with not having Egyptian pounds, it being a weekend so banks were closed, and no one speaks English, even taxi drivers. After persuading the bus driver with 500 tz shillings (the equivalent of 30 cents) and 2 dollars I managed to find my host's house. It was soooooo good to see Claire (a friend from back home!). We spent the weekend mostly catching up, trying Egyptian food, and learning about the Christian side of Egypt..Coptic Cairo. Despite the fact that now the country is 93% Muslim, Christianity has a huge history here, including Egypt being the first place of monasticism. We went in a museum that housed textiles from the 3rd century and pages of the BIble in Arabic from probably the 8th. You gotta love old stuff if you come to the 1st civilization.
My first day solo was spent at the Egyptian museum which was so cool to see the limestone slabs with hieroglyphs on them. The museum did a really good job not putting everything behind glass. The consequence-no cameras allowed. So you'll have to go see King Tut's tomb, animal mummies, and amazing artifacts for yourself. Apparently, the short nights in Dar due to a concert then waking up early to run a 9k and then an early flight caught up with me, cuz I went "home" to sleep..for 5 hours! We were invited to a Spanish dinner and met some more CSers over Spanish tapas.
The citadel wasn't super impressive, but it was definitely an experience to enter a mosque in what looked a Monty Python hooded cloak and see lots of old buildings. I learned how militaristic Egypt is and about the Oct. War when Israel tried to take Sinai. The citadel is much more beautiful at night when it is all lit up and there is a FREE jazz festival going on, which is what happened that night! One of the bands was doing a compilation between Egyptian and German artists so I saw instruments I had never seen before-a khanoun (like an oriental slidy instrument, sorry for the technical term ;P) and oud (looked kinda like a lyre). THe other band played some jazz classics. It was so good we went again the following night and had COMPLETELY different jazz;Ukranian vocal acapella, american hardcore sax, borderline rock, and Latin jazz. The people I met there truly became real friends. Egyptians are such nice people and are so proud to show you their city.
TUesday was spent shopping at the large bazaar here. I've heard attempted gimmicks at getting me into the store such as "I don't know what you're looking for but we have it." "Welcome to my walmart""99% off""Almost free" etc etc etc. Quite amusing, though definitely got tiresome after awhile. I found quite a few souvenirs and bought a poof as they call them here which can serve as a cushion or footrest. Then I went to some beautiful gardens and the most green in Cairo by far. It made me realize how desperately TZ needs and lacks gardens, parks that can be walked in, and beautiful viewpoints of the city (even if it is covered in smog, 22 million people here!). Wed. was a quite disappointing day, walking to various sites that were closed and none of the locals seem to know that. But I will tell you briefly about the one productive hour of the day followed by a fantastic night of Sufi dancing, walking down a street of lit mosques, and cafe/shishah sampling. I went to a museum about THE Arabic diva, Om Kolthoum which was really cool to see women in the spotlight FOR A CHANGE! To give you an idea, there is even a women's train car, and men and women never do things together unless they are married. It's been interesting to see guys kiss on both cheeks as a greeting, hold hands, and walk with arms around each other. The Sufi dancing was incredible. Called the Whirling Dervishes and accompanied by Egyptian music, these men spun for 1/2 an hr without stopping taking off the equivalent of tops in clothing form. Amazing and again free!
Thurs wins the unexpected award. I went to Alexandria for a change of pace, a chance to swim in the Med Sea, and see one of the oldest cities, now a city of 5 million. After an hour delay of the train's arrival and almost getting on the wrong train due to punctuality issues, a guy on the train who I casually talked to hands me his phone telling me it's his wife and she wants to speak English with me...hello? Apparently she's been to MN and wants to meet up...okay, why not? You're welcome at my house anytime...thanks, bye. Wait, my uncle wants to talk to you..okay..I'm from London. If you're ever there my house is available anytime...okay thanks. We were going to meet up for drinks later. I see an old fort and receive another call from the uncle asking me where I am. He and his niece meet up with me and I explain I'm sightseeing. They're welcome to join.."Just give us a call when you're finished." Uh..okay. We went to the library (2nd biggest in the world) and I saw an original page of the Iliad (dont worry Paideia, I took a picture).The uncle calls again and tells us to come to his house and meet his family. He's prepared a dinner for us..I arrive with intention of going to a 2 dollar orchestra concert and hr and a half later knowing full well to kiss that idea goodbye upon arrival. The house is 5 stories, and the furniture is all gold leaf. The food was exquisite: prawns, shrimp, hummus, baba ganoug (not ganoush like we say in the states), 2 types of fish, and salads. Egyptians sure know how to eat! THe 8 and 9 yr old practiced their English with me and the somewhere in his twenties and his friends took me to the man on the train's house so I could meet his wife and see his two 40 day yr old twins and then go to a cafe. I love the cafe environment here. So chill. A cafe here is the equivalent of a bar since Muslims can't drink. I will miss the fresh squeezed fruit juices SO much! After swimming in the Med sea, another HUGE breakfast, more food, more food more food, and a long car trip detour to the airport, I arrived back in Cairo and took a Felucca ride on the Nile and met more nice Egyptians.
But I think the most memorable thing about the trip was the Race for the Cure at the Pyramids. Muslims in headscarves under the free breast cancer hat, long sleeves, usually pink, and quite the gamut of shoes from ballet flats to sandals to completely impractical and not suitable for running. After an hr delay and breakdancers and music to get everyone pumped up, 12000 people set off to run or walk the 2k. Yet, the tour buses, camels, horses, and chariots continued and it became an obstacle course of don't get hit by the various modes of transportation. And running on desert sand makes even 2k and 90+ degree weather quite tiring! After no information in the solar boat museum but a huge model of a boat excavated and of course the Sphinx and climbing around the ruins of the pyramids, we went to retrieve our free lunch tickets. More like a free snack, but that is a scene I will never forget. A section for breast cancer survivors, and music from Arabic to English, all the people on their chairs, with enthusiasm that I hate to say, but you'd only see in the US with intoxication. The energy was incredible! I must say the Sphinx is not how one imagines it, large and glorious. It's quite small really.
So those are the eventful parts of my trip to Cairo. Oh and Zumba, an aerobic dance, is AWESOME!!! One thing this trip has made me realize is how badly I need to be a part of the community when I return to Arusha. I've been living without much community involvement and I need that. I'm going to join the older women's bible study and try to find a cultural role model and practice Swahili and hopefully build a base for myself. Even for ten months, that is such an essential part.
K if you're still reading I'm impressed. I think I'm gonna walk to the Hindu temple and have one last bowl of Koshiri (noodles, tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chick peas, lentils, and fried onions, SO GOOD!) and fresh fruit juice before I leave for the airport. Thanks for reading and as they say here, Salaam. I've managed to pick up the very basics of the Arabic language even if I can't write it.
My first day solo was spent at the Egyptian museum which was so cool to see the limestone slabs with hieroglyphs on them. The museum did a really good job not putting everything behind glass. The consequence-no cameras allowed. So you'll have to go see King Tut's tomb, animal mummies, and amazing artifacts for yourself. Apparently, the short nights in Dar due to a concert then waking up early to run a 9k and then an early flight caught up with me, cuz I went "home" to sleep..for 5 hours! We were invited to a Spanish dinner and met some more CSers over Spanish tapas.
The citadel wasn't super impressive, but it was definitely an experience to enter a mosque in what looked a Monty Python hooded cloak and see lots of old buildings. I learned how militaristic Egypt is and about the Oct. War when Israel tried to take Sinai. The citadel is much more beautiful at night when it is all lit up and there is a FREE jazz festival going on, which is what happened that night! One of the bands was doing a compilation between Egyptian and German artists so I saw instruments I had never seen before-a khanoun (like an oriental slidy instrument, sorry for the technical term ;P) and oud (looked kinda like a lyre). THe other band played some jazz classics. It was so good we went again the following night and had COMPLETELY different jazz;Ukranian vocal acapella, american hardcore sax, borderline rock, and Latin jazz. The people I met there truly became real friends. Egyptians are such nice people and are so proud to show you their city.
TUesday was spent shopping at the large bazaar here. I've heard attempted gimmicks at getting me into the store such as "I don't know what you're looking for but we have it." "Welcome to my walmart""99% off""Almost free" etc etc etc. Quite amusing, though definitely got tiresome after awhile. I found quite a few souvenirs and bought a poof as they call them here which can serve as a cushion or footrest. Then I went to some beautiful gardens and the most green in Cairo by far. It made me realize how desperately TZ needs and lacks gardens, parks that can be walked in, and beautiful viewpoints of the city (even if it is covered in smog, 22 million people here!). Wed. was a quite disappointing day, walking to various sites that were closed and none of the locals seem to know that. But I will tell you briefly about the one productive hour of the day followed by a fantastic night of Sufi dancing, walking down a street of lit mosques, and cafe/shishah sampling. I went to a museum about THE Arabic diva, Om Kolthoum which was really cool to see women in the spotlight FOR A CHANGE! To give you an idea, there is even a women's train car, and men and women never do things together unless they are married. It's been interesting to see guys kiss on both cheeks as a greeting, hold hands, and walk with arms around each other. The Sufi dancing was incredible. Called the Whirling Dervishes and accompanied by Egyptian music, these men spun for 1/2 an hr without stopping taking off the equivalent of tops in clothing form. Amazing and again free!
Thurs wins the unexpected award. I went to Alexandria for a change of pace, a chance to swim in the Med Sea, and see one of the oldest cities, now a city of 5 million. After an hour delay of the train's arrival and almost getting on the wrong train due to punctuality issues, a guy on the train who I casually talked to hands me his phone telling me it's his wife and she wants to speak English with me...hello? Apparently she's been to MN and wants to meet up...okay, why not? You're welcome at my house anytime...thanks, bye. Wait, my uncle wants to talk to you..okay..I'm from London. If you're ever there my house is available anytime...okay thanks. We were going to meet up for drinks later. I see an old fort and receive another call from the uncle asking me where I am. He and his niece meet up with me and I explain I'm sightseeing. They're welcome to join.."Just give us a call when you're finished." Uh..okay. We went to the library (2nd biggest in the world) and I saw an original page of the Iliad (dont worry Paideia, I took a picture).The uncle calls again and tells us to come to his house and meet his family. He's prepared a dinner for us..I arrive with intention of going to a 2 dollar orchestra concert and hr and a half later knowing full well to kiss that idea goodbye upon arrival. The house is 5 stories, and the furniture is all gold leaf. The food was exquisite: prawns, shrimp, hummus, baba ganoug (not ganoush like we say in the states), 2 types of fish, and salads. Egyptians sure know how to eat! THe 8 and 9 yr old practiced their English with me and the somewhere in his twenties and his friends took me to the man on the train's house so I could meet his wife and see his two 40 day yr old twins and then go to a cafe. I love the cafe environment here. So chill. A cafe here is the equivalent of a bar since Muslims can't drink. I will miss the fresh squeezed fruit juices SO much! After swimming in the Med sea, another HUGE breakfast, more food, more food more food, and a long car trip detour to the airport, I arrived back in Cairo and took a Felucca ride on the Nile and met more nice Egyptians.
But I think the most memorable thing about the trip was the Race for the Cure at the Pyramids. Muslims in headscarves under the free breast cancer hat, long sleeves, usually pink, and quite the gamut of shoes from ballet flats to sandals to completely impractical and not suitable for running. After an hr delay and breakdancers and music to get everyone pumped up, 12000 people set off to run or walk the 2k. Yet, the tour buses, camels, horses, and chariots continued and it became an obstacle course of don't get hit by the various modes of transportation. And running on desert sand makes even 2k and 90+ degree weather quite tiring! After no information in the solar boat museum but a huge model of a boat excavated and of course the Sphinx and climbing around the ruins of the pyramids, we went to retrieve our free lunch tickets. More like a free snack, but that is a scene I will never forget. A section for breast cancer survivors, and music from Arabic to English, all the people on their chairs, with enthusiasm that I hate to say, but you'd only see in the US with intoxication. The energy was incredible! I must say the Sphinx is not how one imagines it, large and glorious. It's quite small really.
So those are the eventful parts of my trip to Cairo. Oh and Zumba, an aerobic dance, is AWESOME!!! One thing this trip has made me realize is how badly I need to be a part of the community when I return to Arusha. I've been living without much community involvement and I need that. I'm going to join the older women's bible study and try to find a cultural role model and practice Swahili and hopefully build a base for myself. Even for ten months, that is such an essential part.
K if you're still reading I'm impressed. I think I'm gonna walk to the Hindu temple and have one last bowl of Koshiri (noodles, tomato sauce, garlic sauce, chick peas, lentils, and fried onions, SO GOOD!) and fresh fruit juice before I leave for the airport. Thanks for reading and as they say here, Salaam. I've managed to pick up the very basics of the Arabic language even if I can't write it.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Safari
So I'm aware I haven't updated in awhile. but things are going well. THe reason most recently is I have been on safari without Internet. I'm sure you don't want a twenty paragraph blog entry so I will try to summarize as much as possible.
I am currently in Cairo visiting a dear friend. Had the best airplane service on the way here, with unlimited mango juice refills, a whole row to myself, and a real breakfast, fruit, egg omelet with chicken and tomato, two types of rolls with apricot jelly and cheese, which I must admit I defintely engulfed the cheese with MUCH pleasure after being deprived in TZ of good cheese, and a wonderful book. HIGHLY recommend Five People You'll Meet in Heaven to anyone! Easy, fast, profound read.
.
Today we saw Coptic Cairo. I didn't realize what a Christian history Cairo had and it was really cool to see relics and textiles quite well-preserved from the 3rd century! The archaeologist in me definitely came out as I went through the museum and the old churches. I also went into my first mosque today, the oldest one in Egypt, which was almost comical because I covered my hair and then they require tourists to wear a "special uniform" which is a green version of a Monty Python cloak. Korans are so beautiful/the Arabic language in general is so beautiful, but it is definitely a myth that if you can understand Swahili you can understand 70% of Arabic. To make matters more complicated, VERY FEW speak English here-not even taxi drivers. So when we said we wanted to go to the basilica and it wasn't recognized we said al hamer (sp?) which means pyramids. We meant the plaza that is shaped like a pyramid, but the driver took us in the direction of the pyramids before we realized what was happening. Here, the work week is Sun-Thurs. so tomorrow I'm off to do some sight seeing by myself.
It is SO different here from Tanzania. For one, you must cover your shoulders, not even sleeveless shirts are okay. Two, you cannot say hi to anyone or even acknowledge a man who just says welcome to Egypt. Whic is so difficult since in Tanzania you not only acknowledge EVERYONE, but that is the goal of a journey, not the destination. The fresh squuezed fruit juices are unbelievable and the one Egyptian dish I have tried was delicious. Claire also greeted me with fresh baked cookies and I indulged in brownies last night-oh how I have been deprived ;) Eating chocolate, watching a chick flick, and having girl talk-so needed.
The past week has been a variety of things. I think the highlight was Lushoto. Full of fruits I had never seen before like the mist pear, which I can best describe as a baked apple pie apple, and fruits that made me nostalgic of South America like the tamarillo, and a beautiful 1850 meter climb through the Magamba Rain Forest. It was incredible to see a rain forest appear out of nowhere and really cool to learn about all the natural remedies these people have right in their own backyards-off the trees. Like the Kefla (sp?) leaves for colds. We also saw chameleons, which was a fun, though failed, game of spot the chameleon. Wait for the FB pics of this and you'll see what I mean. It did anger me a bit though when the village children were asking us for gifts and then became even more specific and were asking us for pens. I would like to denounce tourists who think it would be nice to give children, who can hardly afford clothes and food, pens and candy, who then in turn learn to beg for them. Anyway, this brought amusement between kids not believing Sprite was soda, thinking it was water becaues of the color, and them insisting I drive around their little toy car, which of course resulted in a side collision on the side of the road (I emphasize it was a toy). We also saw a cave from WWI where people used to hide. This reminded me that it was a WORLD war, even Africa was affected (Tanzania was a German colony at one point).
Camping was beautiful! Looking up into the starry sky, the cool breeze, the BEAUTIFUL views, and the camping sites were all quite incredible! My favorite was by far in Selous Game Reserve. It was after a long, disappointing day of finding out we were not eligible for TZ citizen status (we thought it was resident status) and after driving 15+ hours to get there finding out it was going to be $105/ day which none of us could afford. So we, after two hours of pleading with the officials who one of the travellers knew her sister, bargained that we would drive through in four hours and camp outside the reserve. Which was fine with me. It was 30 to camp inside the reserve with no bathroom or access to water. The campsite outside the reserve was 10, with a hammock, a swinging chair, a bar, tables, a beautiful view of the Rafiji River that had hippos, and a chance to practice my Italian. There were guards too included (in Selous we would have had to pay for one). So things worked out and despite the wasted money on gas and time driving, we got to spend an extra night at the beachhouse in Dar where we went and saw Selif Keita (look him UP!), a west African (Mali) band with some incredible percussionsists, guitarist, bassist, and synchronized back-up singers/dancers. He's an albino and apparently albinos are used as a sacrifice so he was bringing awareness to this and giving Albinos a good rep. In typical TZ fashion, the concert that was supposed to start at 9:30 didn' tbegin till 11 pm, and then the tuk tuk broke down 5 times on the way home so I didn't get to bed till 1;50. After batting mosquitoes enough inside the house for half an hour, I, without my glasses, set up the tent outside and slept like a baby till 6:30 when I was awoken to go run the "fun walk 8k with an American breakfast following.." Little did we know, it was a half marathon, or 9k, that didn't start till 7:30 (meaning MUCH hotter), and one samosa was the reward. But it was for the rotary club, I got a t-shirt, and they raised 135,000,000 shillings (a little more than 100,000 dollars for 25 TZ schools to have drinking water so that made me feel super good AND I ran it-the whole thing-in the Dar heat! Aside from the heat, it was a beautiful run, taking me by the seaside. The afternoon was spent in the WARM Indian Ocean water with TZ kids asking me to teach them how to swim. First three kids bombarded me and I explained it was too dangerous in the best Swahili I could muster. Then an older guy, probably early 20s, late teens, came and I figured one-on-one I could manage-and succeeded :) Then I took a much needed nap on the beach and finished the night off with a delicious barbecue and early bedtime as I had to be at the airport at 4 am the next day.
So hopefully that wasn't too long ;) More on Cairo to come next week when I return.
Salaam,
Sara
I am currently in Cairo visiting a dear friend. Had the best airplane service on the way here, with unlimited mango juice refills, a whole row to myself, and a real breakfast, fruit, egg omelet with chicken and tomato, two types of rolls with apricot jelly and cheese, which I must admit I defintely engulfed the cheese with MUCH pleasure after being deprived in TZ of good cheese, and a wonderful book. HIGHLY recommend Five People You'll Meet in Heaven to anyone! Easy, fast, profound read.
.
Today we saw Coptic Cairo. I didn't realize what a Christian history Cairo had and it was really cool to see relics and textiles quite well-preserved from the 3rd century! The archaeologist in me definitely came out as I went through the museum and the old churches. I also went into my first mosque today, the oldest one in Egypt, which was almost comical because I covered my hair and then they require tourists to wear a "special uniform" which is a green version of a Monty Python cloak. Korans are so beautiful/the Arabic language in general is so beautiful, but it is definitely a myth that if you can understand Swahili you can understand 70% of Arabic. To make matters more complicated, VERY FEW speak English here-not even taxi drivers. So when we said we wanted to go to the basilica and it wasn't recognized we said al hamer (sp?) which means pyramids. We meant the plaza that is shaped like a pyramid, but the driver took us in the direction of the pyramids before we realized what was happening. Here, the work week is Sun-Thurs. so tomorrow I'm off to do some sight seeing by myself.
It is SO different here from Tanzania. For one, you must cover your shoulders, not even sleeveless shirts are okay. Two, you cannot say hi to anyone or even acknowledge a man who just says welcome to Egypt. Whic is so difficult since in Tanzania you not only acknowledge EVERYONE, but that is the goal of a journey, not the destination. The fresh squuezed fruit juices are unbelievable and the one Egyptian dish I have tried was delicious. Claire also greeted me with fresh baked cookies and I indulged in brownies last night-oh how I have been deprived ;) Eating chocolate, watching a chick flick, and having girl talk-so needed.
The past week has been a variety of things. I think the highlight was Lushoto. Full of fruits I had never seen before like the mist pear, which I can best describe as a baked apple pie apple, and fruits that made me nostalgic of South America like the tamarillo, and a beautiful 1850 meter climb through the Magamba Rain Forest. It was incredible to see a rain forest appear out of nowhere and really cool to learn about all the natural remedies these people have right in their own backyards-off the trees. Like the Kefla (sp?) leaves for colds. We also saw chameleons, which was a fun, though failed, game of spot the chameleon. Wait for the FB pics of this and you'll see what I mean. It did anger me a bit though when the village children were asking us for gifts and then became even more specific and were asking us for pens. I would like to denounce tourists who think it would be nice to give children, who can hardly afford clothes and food, pens and candy, who then in turn learn to beg for them. Anyway, this brought amusement between kids not believing Sprite was soda, thinking it was water becaues of the color, and them insisting I drive around their little toy car, which of course resulted in a side collision on the side of the road (I emphasize it was a toy). We also saw a cave from WWI where people used to hide. This reminded me that it was a WORLD war, even Africa was affected (Tanzania was a German colony at one point).
Camping was beautiful! Looking up into the starry sky, the cool breeze, the BEAUTIFUL views, and the camping sites were all quite incredible! My favorite was by far in Selous Game Reserve. It was after a long, disappointing day of finding out we were not eligible for TZ citizen status (we thought it was resident status) and after driving 15+ hours to get there finding out it was going to be $105/ day which none of us could afford. So we, after two hours of pleading with the officials who one of the travellers knew her sister, bargained that we would drive through in four hours and camp outside the reserve. Which was fine with me. It was 30 to camp inside the reserve with no bathroom or access to water. The campsite outside the reserve was 10, with a hammock, a swinging chair, a bar, tables, a beautiful view of the Rafiji River that had hippos, and a chance to practice my Italian. There were guards too included (in Selous we would have had to pay for one). So things worked out and despite the wasted money on gas and time driving, we got to spend an extra night at the beachhouse in Dar where we went and saw Selif Keita (look him UP!), a west African (Mali) band with some incredible percussionsists, guitarist, bassist, and synchronized back-up singers/dancers. He's an albino and apparently albinos are used as a sacrifice so he was bringing awareness to this and giving Albinos a good rep. In typical TZ fashion, the concert that was supposed to start at 9:30 didn' tbegin till 11 pm, and then the tuk tuk broke down 5 times on the way home so I didn't get to bed till 1;50. After batting mosquitoes enough inside the house for half an hour, I, without my glasses, set up the tent outside and slept like a baby till 6:30 when I was awoken to go run the "fun walk 8k with an American breakfast following.." Little did we know, it was a half marathon, or 9k, that didn't start till 7:30 (meaning MUCH hotter), and one samosa was the reward. But it was for the rotary club, I got a t-shirt, and they raised 135,000,000 shillings (a little more than 100,000 dollars for 25 TZ schools to have drinking water so that made me feel super good AND I ran it-the whole thing-in the Dar heat! Aside from the heat, it was a beautiful run, taking me by the seaside. The afternoon was spent in the WARM Indian Ocean water with TZ kids asking me to teach them how to swim. First three kids bombarded me and I explained it was too dangerous in the best Swahili I could muster. Then an older guy, probably early 20s, late teens, came and I figured one-on-one I could manage-and succeeded :) Then I took a much needed nap on the beach and finished the night off with a delicious barbecue and early bedtime as I had to be at the airport at 4 am the next day.
So hopefully that wasn't too long ;) More on Cairo to come next week when I return.
Salaam,
Sara
Monday, October 4, 2010
the African spirit
I don't know how else to describe it, but quite frankly this place has a spirit of joy. I went and saw Joseph and the Techni-Colored Dreamcoat. I must admit I was VERY surprised by the quality of the show. Not only did they have costumes and the music was wonderful, but the kids were just so good. The conductor couldn't have been older than the rest of the class (6th form which is more or less 6th grade or their 6th year in school). He was so enthusiastic and into what he was doing, waving his arms in a figure eight pattern regardless of the song. Dressed in a rainbow, bright vest and never stopping, he meant business. Granted he would have completely failed even Intro to Conducting, but that wasn't the point. The dancing was quite impressive and the power behind the songs when at least 50 children are singing at once is quite incredible! I almost cried at the end.
Sat. night, Ms. Courtney Greeley came with two of her friends for the night before climbing Kili and then going out into the field for seven weeks! It made me sad to think about Luther. It made me realize how much I had forgotten, but of course it was great to see her and hear words like "pop" again. We also threw a frisbee which made me SO happy!
Went with the Arusha Hiking club on Sun. and met some new friends. Unfortunately, we just walked through a village and it was overcast, but still really nice to just walk and get some fresh air. Got a pedicure for 7000 (equivalent of less than 5 bucks!) and a dang good one too! My feet were so calloused from MT. Apparently being vegetarian makes you lose a lot of weight. Everytime I go to the gym I'm 4 kilos lighter! I'm starting to wonder if the scale is broken..
4 days till break, that's really all I can think of!! Our plan is to go to Selous Game Reserve (where there are 64,000 elephants, 4000 lions, and 2000 giraffes (bigger than Serengeti!), Lushoto to do some hiking in the mountains, and of course hit up the Indian Ocean. Then I'm off to Cairo to visit Claire. Probably won't be a whole lot to update before then.
Cheers
Sat. night, Ms. Courtney Greeley came with two of her friends for the night before climbing Kili and then going out into the field for seven weeks! It made me sad to think about Luther. It made me realize how much I had forgotten, but of course it was great to see her and hear words like "pop" again. We also threw a frisbee which made me SO happy!
Went with the Arusha Hiking club on Sun. and met some new friends. Unfortunately, we just walked through a village and it was overcast, but still really nice to just walk and get some fresh air. Got a pedicure for 7000 (equivalent of less than 5 bucks!) and a dang good one too! My feet were so calloused from MT. Apparently being vegetarian makes you lose a lot of weight. Everytime I go to the gym I'm 4 kilos lighter! I'm starting to wonder if the scale is broken..
4 days till break, that's really all I can think of!! Our plan is to go to Selous Game Reserve (where there are 64,000 elephants, 4000 lions, and 2000 giraffes (bigger than Serengeti!), Lushoto to do some hiking in the mountains, and of course hit up the Indian Ocean. Then I'm off to Cairo to visit Claire. Probably won't be a whole lot to update before then.
Cheers
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Yet another language..Chaga
So my friend Hellen invited me to Moshi today to go to her house in Kili. Moshi is SO much smaller than Arusha. The soil is like the red soil you'd find in the Southwest of the US and there are banana trees everywhere, but it is also MUCH hotter. The first baptism in TZ occurred there too! Beautiful area! Unfortunately it was cloudy so I couldn't see the peaks of Kili and Meru (usually you can). And I found a deal for climbing Kili so it's happening in Dec!!! Have I said how great this week has been :)!
I went to not only a Tanzanian church service, but a Chaga (tribe) service so the songs were in Chaga. It was really cool to hear some of the same tunes though, showing how universal music can be. Regardless of the language change, the music remains the same. On the way out there, we listened to the radio and it was choir music (some even from St. Olaf! talk about a small world!), but in Swahili. I would never have guessed it was an "African choir" because I always think of them having a beat, but once again the stereotype was broken.
Fortunately, most of the sermon and lessons were in Swahili so I could have my friend help me translate. It was really interesting though. The sermon wasn't based on the gospel saying this is the context of this verse, etc. instead it talked directly about what actions we should do. Very different than the US. Also, the service was THREE hours long. Not because it was all part of the service, but because an award was presented, the whole finances were read including how much each area collected, money was raised (yes during the service) for the children's Sun. next Sun., and there were two offerings. Because it was a village there was the typical offering, but there was also the tithes of people's goods such as 3.5 m sugar cane sticks, huge banana bunches, fruits, vegetables, and even a bundle of grass for cows. THEN after the service, we walked outside and proceeded with a 1/2 hr auction of said items. Definitely a cultural experience!
Then we went to her aunt's house for ndizi ya pikwa, cooked bananas with meat in a broth. Basically like a potato stew but with bananas. Quite yummy! We were then going to go hiking, but it was too hot. Banana wine is still on my list of things to try, but it seems many religious TZians don't drink because they know it can be abused. Which kinda bothers me and in my opinion should be all the more reason to drink because I feel that is all the more reason to show there is such a thing as responsible drinking (sorry that was a horribly constructed sentence).
My Swahili notebook probably got filled up with three pages of stuff. So yea, eventful weekend after all! I can't believe it's already Mon. tomorrow. Friends, it was SO good to talk to you!!! Miss you all, but loving TZ and can't even believe I considered rejecting this offer.
Pendo na salamu (Love and best wishes)
Sara
I went to not only a Tanzanian church service, but a Chaga (tribe) service so the songs were in Chaga. It was really cool to hear some of the same tunes though, showing how universal music can be. Regardless of the language change, the music remains the same. On the way out there, we listened to the radio and it was choir music (some even from St. Olaf! talk about a small world!), but in Swahili. I would never have guessed it was an "African choir" because I always think of them having a beat, but once again the stereotype was broken.
Fortunately, most of the sermon and lessons were in Swahili so I could have my friend help me translate. It was really interesting though. The sermon wasn't based on the gospel saying this is the context of this verse, etc. instead it talked directly about what actions we should do. Very different than the US. Also, the service was THREE hours long. Not because it was all part of the service, but because an award was presented, the whole finances were read including how much each area collected, money was raised (yes during the service) for the children's Sun. next Sun., and there were two offerings. Because it was a village there was the typical offering, but there was also the tithes of people's goods such as 3.5 m sugar cane sticks, huge banana bunches, fruits, vegetables, and even a bundle of grass for cows. THEN after the service, we walked outside and proceeded with a 1/2 hr auction of said items. Definitely a cultural experience!
Then we went to her aunt's house for ndizi ya pikwa, cooked bananas with meat in a broth. Basically like a potato stew but with bananas. Quite yummy! We were then going to go hiking, but it was too hot. Banana wine is still on my list of things to try, but it seems many religious TZians don't drink because they know it can be abused. Which kinda bothers me and in my opinion should be all the more reason to drink because I feel that is all the more reason to show there is such a thing as responsible drinking (sorry that was a horribly constructed sentence).
My Swahili notebook probably got filled up with three pages of stuff. So yea, eventful weekend after all! I can't believe it's already Mon. tomorrow. Friends, it was SO good to talk to you!!! Miss you all, but loving TZ and can't even believe I considered rejecting this offer.
Pendo na salamu (Love and best wishes)
Sara
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Life just keeps getting better and better
It seems we have a weekly power outage and that is when I update. Tonight we are performing at a nearby restaurant, get paid!!!, and get free food and drinks. Though it will be interesting if there is no power…
I am truly in a routine and most definitely feel like I live here. Teaching is going very well and going to the schools is again my favorite. The kids are so fascinated and today I even introduced what a harmony was and how to breathe when we sing. I can’t remember if I talked about UE so if I didn’t I will in my next post. It would be silly to write about it if I have. There are some REALLY cute puppies there though, but super sad. There are only 2; there were originally 9, but the other 7 have died :(.
I also got an infected knee since I’ve last updated, but thanks to antibiotics, I’m finally getting better. Last wknd I went to the Polo club. Talk about a contrast. Of course it was nice, but I don’t think I’ve ever felt guiltier, basking in luxury while I am passing people working, balancing things on their heads, and children being thoroughly amused with a mere, deflated soccer ball.
Sweetest thing-I go to a gym and the owner there is basically giving me free personal training. AWESOME! I’m finally reading again working out too! J I highly recommend The Geography of Bliss by Eric Weiner to anyone. You will learn a lot and possibly learn a new country; I never knew Moldova existed! Lots of interesting points about what makes a human happy. Which is why I don’t worry about the future more than I subconsciously can’t help and just try to live in the present. My Swahili teacher gave me a tour of our complex. Little did I know we have tortoises, the place used to be a zoo in some capacity with parrots, ostriches, etc. AND the best part of all, right behind our house is a beautiful river with lush banana trees and honestly a tropics feel and a HUGE veggie garden. It’s not ours, but it still makes me feel at home. And orange, banana, cashew, and MANGO trees. So while I would NEVER go there in the dark, during the day, I have a new place to sunbathe, read, or just get away from the city life-right in my own backyard.
Oh and I taught, not 1, not 2, but 3 piano lessons last Sat. in complete BROKEN Swahili! I’m starting to feel competent but definitely still have a long way to go! I rode in my first dala-dala last wknd but it really wasn’t eventful. It was just like a van ride. And I made my first TZ female friend outside of work who is a mutual friend with someone from Luther. Really nice and only lives at max. 2 miles away (probably less!).
I’m still trying to figure out exactly what to do for the Oct. break we have in 2 weeks! One week is for sure Cairo and the other….TBD. Probably a combination of the coastal beaches with some type of hiking and DEFINITELY camping. I just can’t get it out of my system!
Okay update after the gig. I guess it went well because not only did we ask to come back since it was so different than the normal guitar/voice combo, BUT we got offered a gig for NYE in Ngorogoro with FREE ACCOMODATION, MEALS, TRANSPORTATION, A REALLY GOOD SALARY, AND A FREE SAFARI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Holy crap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And for Oct. break I’m 90% sure I’m going to do just what I described above-mountains, beach, and Bagamoyo all camping. Found some travel buddies tonight so that’s great too! God, this place just keeps getting better!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
No electricity again!
GRRRR! Power out AGAIN!!!!!!!!! It was out all day today, finally came on at 7:30 pm tonight and now is back off 3 hrs later. They do power cuts here but no one has any warning of when they will happen so of course scheduling Skype dates is impossible (sorry again Ryan!). Other than that, everything is continuing to go well though I can’t lie. I had a bit of a reality check this weekend, including my phone getting robbed (but I love my new one so it’s okay and let’s be honest I had few numbers in it), but overall it was still a fun wknd. Went to the Arusha International Arts Festival, which wasn’t so international, but still quite cool to see African acrobats, amusing to watch African “hip hop” and a band that is most closely classified as REPETITIVE reggae! I met a lot of young people at church so that was great. Saa Nane taught me how to make ugali, maize flour that you dip in beans, vegetables, and spinach usually. He can cook SO well! We made the BEST guacamole I have EVER had! And today I learned how to make chapati, a TZ flatbread. I feel like I have the advantages of having a host family in that way, but the independence of living without a family. I joined a gym, which while expensive, I really think I won’t regret because it has a roof but is open aired so it’s like you’re outside, has great heart-pumping music, I’m back to reading (sadly, working out is really the only time I have a good 30 min to read), and the facilities are very nice. Calanetics just didn’t give me the same high I get from a good cardio and weight lifting. I am very sore today though since I haven’t lifted weights since I’ve gotten here!
I know I talk about this every time but my Swahili is getting better and better. I had to translate a letter into Swahili for the Umoja Ensemble parents (that starts on Fri!!!) and of course I had MANY errors, but just the fact that I got fragments of sentences right made me very happy and I’m really trying to speak as much Swahili as I can to the house staff even though they speak English. Though it was funny when I got dropped off after work and told Babu he didn’t need to open the gate since I got a ride. I tried to ask him how to say ride in Swahili but all he said was “lifty” in English and I chuckled at the fact that this toothless, leopard hat wearing, old man couldn’t think of word in his own language.
As my Facebook says, I’ve started a granola making business with two customers at the current moment, and have made yogurt, hummus, and bread. The bread turned out SUPER well which I was worried about since it didn’t rise before it went in the oven, but maybe yeast just works differently here. The hummus is a bit too tahini-ified so I need to figure out how to mellow it without adding water and ruining the consistency, but of course the Internet isn’t working to find a recipe.
The African sunsets are so beautiful here-literally looks like a ball of fire in the sky. Have three pages left of The Legacies of Julius Nyerere which I would recommend to anyone! It’s all different opinions on his discourse on development and then finishes with my favorite chapter, where he defines socialism and makes some excellent points. I’m not necessarily pro-Socialist governments, but I do think he has some very valid points, and especially with the corruption of TZ government today, the power of Mwalimu (teacher) as they call him here, is emphasized.
Jacaranda trees are in full bloom, which is a bright, light purple. GORGEOUS! I’m finally starting to walk around town and know where I am though I still have a long way to go. And my piano schedule is filling up and non-profit work has started so life is in full swing.
Well hopefully the Internet comes back on tmrw morning so I can post this.
Salamu, (Best regards)
Sara
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Jacaranda trees are BEAUTIFUL
While much has happened since I've last posted, that's the thing I want to stress most. Walking down city roads and seeing purple trees is amazing. Today we went to the Arusha Declaration museum. Tanzania used to be under German control. It makes me sad that when we learn about WWI we never talk about the German colonies like Tanzania so we don't think about the consequences and fatalities that occurred here. I've been reading The Legacies of Julius Nyerere, which is a fantastic book with so many different viewpoints, so it was cool to see in the museum pics and a bio of the man I've been reading about. The museum also had BEAUTIFUL original paintings that in the US would sell for 1,000 and here were only 100 so i may indulge! The white walls in my house are especially in favor! 100 for a piece of artwork I can have forever I think is a good investment!
Teaching is going well. Not really a lot of news there except that the new teacher at ISM is a Luther grad named Chelsea. That's all I know! SMALL WORLD! And the music director is from Lacrosse. Liza's goodbye party was good, so weird and sad to see her go, but I am so independent now.
Since she has left:
I have arranged a CS meeting and gone out with them (tonight) to the International Diversity Festival involving African acrobats, traditional dancing/drumming, hiphop which was HILARIOUS to watch them dance (NOT hiphop dancing like the States), and, get this-inside the bar they'd hand you headphones that had disco music on them. SO people would sit solitarily listening to disco music!
I went to the other TZ school on Thurs. that was a Maasai school out in the middle of nowhere and a huge maze quite literally to find! But a gorgeous school, really quite comparable to a US school with complex grammar lessons, posters, desks, and computers. I'm SO excited for Umoja ensemble to start!
And I rode a bike from the gym back home by myself. People made this sound much scarier than it is-there are plenty of sidewalks here, quite honestly more here than MN, and people go very slowly since there is basically almost always traffic. I really feel like I can say I feel like I live here and this wknd is already loads of improvement with knowing the city. Walking helps so much!
I bought a kitenge, an African dress, but despite the fact that they measured me, it is still WAY too big so I need to bring it back to get altered. But aside from that, it actually looks really cool and I actually look decent in it ;) We played at a baptism before Liza left and it was really fun to all play together. We also went to a Tanzanian's house for the most delicious chai tea i've had yet (w/ ginger) and butter sandwiches. He's invited us back to cook African food.
Well my eyelids are beginning to close so I'm going to tuck in. First Outreach lessons tmrw (meaning piano in Swahili which will more than likely be Swanglish as they call it here).
Cheers,
S
Teaching is going well. Not really a lot of news there except that the new teacher at ISM is a Luther grad named Chelsea. That's all I know! SMALL WORLD! And the music director is from Lacrosse. Liza's goodbye party was good, so weird and sad to see her go, but I am so independent now.
Since she has left:
I have arranged a CS meeting and gone out with them (tonight) to the International Diversity Festival involving African acrobats, traditional dancing/drumming, hiphop which was HILARIOUS to watch them dance (NOT hiphop dancing like the States), and, get this-inside the bar they'd hand you headphones that had disco music on them. SO people would sit solitarily listening to disco music!
I went to the other TZ school on Thurs. that was a Maasai school out in the middle of nowhere and a huge maze quite literally to find! But a gorgeous school, really quite comparable to a US school with complex grammar lessons, posters, desks, and computers. I'm SO excited for Umoja ensemble to start!
And I rode a bike from the gym back home by myself. People made this sound much scarier than it is-there are plenty of sidewalks here, quite honestly more here than MN, and people go very slowly since there is basically almost always traffic. I really feel like I can say I feel like I live here and this wknd is already loads of improvement with knowing the city. Walking helps so much!
I bought a kitenge, an African dress, but despite the fact that they measured me, it is still WAY too big so I need to bring it back to get altered. But aside from that, it actually looks really cool and I actually look decent in it ;) We played at a baptism before Liza left and it was really fun to all play together. We also went to a Tanzanian's house for the most delicious chai tea i've had yet (w/ ginger) and butter sandwiches. He's invited us back to cook African food.
Well my eyelids are beginning to close so I'm going to tuck in. First Outreach lessons tmrw (meaning piano in Swahili which will more than likely be Swanglish as they call it here).
Cheers,
S
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Safari and Maasai: 1st Weekend in Tanzania!
Sorry for the delay on this update. These past two days have been crazy busy with lessons starting this week, all going extremely well by the way! I've always loved teaching and now it's so exciting to have so many different kids from so many different backgrounds and a good number originally from the Netherlands, some from India, some from Arusha, very few from the States, and some from the UK. Tomorrow another school gets added to the mix and I take my first taxi, not quite ready for a dala dala, though my Swahili is still dramatically improving and I can understand A LOT! I would definitely say I"m already at survival level :)
So the past weekend, our driver is also a trained safari guide and took my housemate, another American who left today (and took some awesome pics, soon to come!), and myself to Tarangere National Park. I'm glad that for Tanzanians it is very affordable (about a dollar), and non-East Africans is $35 entry fee, but so worth it! The first animal we saw was a zebra, which we looked at, fawning over it and taking multiple shots. Saa Nane told us we'd see more and we were disappointed when he drove away. But then next was elephants, which later ended up crossing the road right in front of our car and eating from a tree right on the side (I have a video!) and were HUGE! A baobao tree is a HUGE old tree and the elephant was taller! Then wildabeests, which not to sound mean, but truly are the ugliest animal. Then warthogs (Pumba anyone?) and Thompson gazelles from afar, later to be closer. The animals continued! Impala, dik-dik, baboons including one tiny baby holding onto her mother as she was carried around, giraffes, which looked way different than the zoo, and two lionesses stalking a zebra. The zebra came closer and closer to the napping lions. Two of the three lions woke up and started to watch the zebra, but didn't move. They got into pounce position and just watched the zebra get closer and closer. The zebra went around the backside of the sleeping lion and the heads of the other two lions turned. The lions didn't chase the zebra until it was down by the watering hole, at least 75m away! They missed, but it was really cool to see a scene I've only seen on Animal Planet come to life. Of course as the lion is sneaking up on the zebra, the safari vehicles are sneaking up on the lion. And then after their futile attempt, they decided to go back into the shade, walking by our car to get back there! Incredible. We saw some birds (lovebirds, ad, imm, vultures, and ostriches) and then went to a picnic spot where there were monkeys and we could look out at the vast plateau around us and see the elephants and zebras from up on a bluff. It felt so good to stretch our legs too after sitting in the car for 3 hrs. It was a FANTASTIC first safari. I hope to do Ngorogoro when my parents come, where there are only ten rhinos left in the world!
Then we met Liza's dala dala and headed to a Maasai village called Ol Tukai. Liza's boyfriend who died (RIP Korbitt) made a 200,000 acre conservancy and taught the Maasai about anti-poaching. The Maasai are a pastoral people who only eat cow meat and drink milk and cow blood, yummy. They have many wives and a woman's only purpose is to have babies. Their sandals are made out of motorcycle tires and many had gaged ears and lots of jewelry. Their dances involved which man could jump the highest and running towards the girls...I never said I approved of the symbolism. Their music was interesting. Acapella and very rhythmic (again I have a video) and lasted a long duration. I've learned so much from my Mapuche paper, which btw will be published in the NCUR proceedings in Nov :) Anyway, after paying each one 5000 shiillings (less than 5 dollars), of course eleven show up, we cooked a delicious meal over the fire on animal skulls and looked up at the beautiful starry sky. I love how insignificant I feel, looking up at the southern hemisphere sky and not recognizing any of the constellations. Though Venus was very bright! In the morning, we mainly hung out, and I took a walk down to Lake Manyara. This is clearly the bush, the middle of nowhere, and this space was so vast and such a powerful, beautiful landscape. Gazelle and flamingos played at the water's edge.
Then we went into town after talking to the oldest, richest ( measured by cattle and amount of wives) man and ate Tanzanian bbq of goat and beef meat. The meat is very chewy here so I wasn't a huge fan. I've only eaten meat 4 times now! But I think from now on I'll stick to pork, chicken, and fish. On the way back, we rode camels (for 5 mins), but it was definitely an experience getting up and down! The camel bends his legs down and it takes everything in my power to lean back and not fall off. Camels walk so slowly. No wonder they trotted through the deserts in Arabia. They'd never get anywhere at a normal camel rate-it's probably 1/2 a human step!
Today was really cool because we went to Makumira University that started as a Lutheran theology school and now has many other degree programs (sound familiar, Luther?) including music. To give you an idea of the Tanzanian way of thinking, the school year has been pushed back so that the gov't doesn't have to pay its deadlines. WE met the two directors who run the school and I'm hopefully going to collaborate with one with her girls' choir and my community choir, and we're going to join an African ensemble class when the semester begins! They will be a GREAT resource and I kept thinking of Luther and their j-term class.
Well my eyes are getting heavy and I have Swahili at 9 am followed by teaching so I'm off to bed. Badai (See you later)
So the past weekend, our driver is also a trained safari guide and took my housemate, another American who left today (and took some awesome pics, soon to come!), and myself to Tarangere National Park. I'm glad that for Tanzanians it is very affordable (about a dollar), and non-East Africans is $35 entry fee, but so worth it! The first animal we saw was a zebra, which we looked at, fawning over it and taking multiple shots. Saa Nane told us we'd see more and we were disappointed when he drove away. But then next was elephants, which later ended up crossing the road right in front of our car and eating from a tree right on the side (I have a video!) and were HUGE! A baobao tree is a HUGE old tree and the elephant was taller! Then wildabeests, which not to sound mean, but truly are the ugliest animal. Then warthogs (Pumba anyone?) and Thompson gazelles from afar, later to be closer. The animals continued! Impala, dik-dik, baboons including one tiny baby holding onto her mother as she was carried around, giraffes, which looked way different than the zoo, and two lionesses stalking a zebra. The zebra came closer and closer to the napping lions. Two of the three lions woke up and started to watch the zebra, but didn't move. They got into pounce position and just watched the zebra get closer and closer. The zebra went around the backside of the sleeping lion and the heads of the other two lions turned. The lions didn't chase the zebra until it was down by the watering hole, at least 75m away! They missed, but it was really cool to see a scene I've only seen on Animal Planet come to life. Of course as the lion is sneaking up on the zebra, the safari vehicles are sneaking up on the lion. And then after their futile attempt, they decided to go back into the shade, walking by our car to get back there! Incredible. We saw some birds (lovebirds, ad, imm, vultures, and ostriches) and then went to a picnic spot where there were monkeys and we could look out at the vast plateau around us and see the elephants and zebras from up on a bluff. It felt so good to stretch our legs too after sitting in the car for 3 hrs. It was a FANTASTIC first safari. I hope to do Ngorogoro when my parents come, where there are only ten rhinos left in the world!
Then we met Liza's dala dala and headed to a Maasai village called Ol Tukai. Liza's boyfriend who died (RIP Korbitt) made a 200,000 acre conservancy and taught the Maasai about anti-poaching. The Maasai are a pastoral people who only eat cow meat and drink milk and cow blood, yummy. They have many wives and a woman's only purpose is to have babies. Their sandals are made out of motorcycle tires and many had gaged ears and lots of jewelry. Their dances involved which man could jump the highest and running towards the girls...I never said I approved of the symbolism. Their music was interesting. Acapella and very rhythmic (again I have a video) and lasted a long duration. I've learned so much from my Mapuche paper, which btw will be published in the NCUR proceedings in Nov :) Anyway, after paying each one 5000 shiillings (less than 5 dollars), of course eleven show up, we cooked a delicious meal over the fire on animal skulls and looked up at the beautiful starry sky. I love how insignificant I feel, looking up at the southern hemisphere sky and not recognizing any of the constellations. Though Venus was very bright! In the morning, we mainly hung out, and I took a walk down to Lake Manyara. This is clearly the bush, the middle of nowhere, and this space was so vast and such a powerful, beautiful landscape. Gazelle and flamingos played at the water's edge.
Then we went into town after talking to the oldest, richest ( measured by cattle and amount of wives) man and ate Tanzanian bbq of goat and beef meat. The meat is very chewy here so I wasn't a huge fan. I've only eaten meat 4 times now! But I think from now on I'll stick to pork, chicken, and fish. On the way back, we rode camels (for 5 mins), but it was definitely an experience getting up and down! The camel bends his legs down and it takes everything in my power to lean back and not fall off. Camels walk so slowly. No wonder they trotted through the deserts in Arabia. They'd never get anywhere at a normal camel rate-it's probably 1/2 a human step!
Today was really cool because we went to Makumira University that started as a Lutheran theology school and now has many other degree programs (sound familiar, Luther?) including music. To give you an idea of the Tanzanian way of thinking, the school year has been pushed back so that the gov't doesn't have to pay its deadlines. WE met the two directors who run the school and I'm hopefully going to collaborate with one with her girls' choir and my community choir, and we're going to join an African ensemble class when the semester begins! They will be a GREAT resource and I kept thinking of Luther and their j-term class.
Well my eyes are getting heavy and I have Swahili at 9 am followed by teaching so I'm off to bed. Badai (See you later)
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Going to the market and being in a band :)
So yesterday I experienced local life. First I had a Swahili lesson and learned correct pronunciation and spelling, which was quite easy since it's more or less phonetic. Then we went to the local market to practice the names of vegetables/fruits and how to say "which price?" from the day before. Walking into the market, our driver Saa Nane came with us and found a street kid to help us carry stuff. I refused and carried some stuff. it's not like I'm incapable and there's no reason he should carry five bags, when I have two perfectly good hands. Anyway, walking into the market, everyone started showing us what they had, and the buying commenced. However, while it was significantly larger than Chile, the people were much less obstinate and cogent in showing they were the buyer you wanted. A handy saying,"Tuna chapata (we already bought (that))" definitely was useful. And then they would leave you alone unlike South America. While there were some "oh my god so beautiful" comments, the intensity of catcalls and the quantity was also significantly less. I wonder if this is because we were with Saa Nane or if the people are just more genuine here. They seem so. I must admit I was quite proud of myself. I remembered the majority of the vegetables/fruits, and asked how much everything cost and how much I wanted (in Swahili) on the third day of being here. I loved it so much. Our Swahili teacher told us we went to the "expensive" market, and by expensive, I mean every vegetable you can think of for under twenty dollars! He says the other market is practically free so maybe we'll go there with him next time, but we have a whole fridge to eat first.
Last night, we went out for dinner with plans of discussing work (a meeting over dinner). But then we ran into people Liza knew and ate with them. One of them owns a lot of the restaurants in town and got my number for gigs :) He told us there was a jam session at a club called Colobus and it was his birthday tomorrow along with the Thai restaurant head so we all agreed to go. Liza and Nina ended up staying home, but I'm so glad I went! It began with a Tanzanian band that an ex-pat from the States had joined that would more or less be described as a reggae band. And then they announced whichever musicians would like to come to the stage. Stiggy, the gui who owns all the restaurants, brought a piano for me and another American, some Tanzanians and me jammed for a good long while. It started with a simple chord progression and led to some pretty cool solos, some guys started singing, and was just all around awesome! Afterwards, the band came back and I went to tell Stiggy I was leaving (he went to eat dinner with Deng, the Thai restaurant head), which involved walking through the band to get to the restaurant part. As i was passing through, the guitar player asked me if I'd play piano with him. "Just lay down some chords.." so I did. I ended up staying another good hr playing with the band! It was awesome!!!
So yep that's day 3 in a nutshell. Better go get dressed before our 10 am Swahili lesson :)
Last night, we went out for dinner with plans of discussing work (a meeting over dinner). But then we ran into people Liza knew and ate with them. One of them owns a lot of the restaurants in town and got my number for gigs :) He told us there was a jam session at a club called Colobus and it was his birthday tomorrow along with the Thai restaurant head so we all agreed to go. Liza and Nina ended up staying home, but I'm so glad I went! It began with a Tanzanian band that an ex-pat from the States had joined that would more or less be described as a reggae band. And then they announced whichever musicians would like to come to the stage. Stiggy, the gui who owns all the restaurants, brought a piano for me and another American, some Tanzanians and me jammed for a good long while. It started with a simple chord progression and led to some pretty cool solos, some guys started singing, and was just all around awesome! Afterwards, the band came back and I went to tell Stiggy I was leaving (he went to eat dinner with Deng, the Thai restaurant head), which involved walking through the band to get to the restaurant part. As i was passing through, the guitar player asked me if I'd play piano with him. "Just lay down some chords.." so I did. I ended up staying another good hr playing with the band! It was awesome!!!
So yep that's day 3 in a nutshell. Better go get dressed before our 10 am Swahili lesson :)
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Karibu sana
That means very welcome, which I've heard multiple times today. Forgive me if this entry is not organized or in narrative form like I usually write. I managed the day without a nap fighting jetlag and everything is new. You can't just ask, "How's Tanzania?" I say this after the first day! I can't even imagine what it will be like after living here 10 months! If you want a summary, food is so good, people are so wonderful, and Africa is so beautiful. Now for the more in-depth version..
Let me start by describing Arusha, the city where I am living. Even though it is a city, people say it is a small town because everyone knows everyone. It's a city but by no means westernized. People still wear the beautiful traditional clothing, which we are getting measured for tomorrow :):):), and yes, the typical image of women balancing baskets on their heads is completely true. However, the obnoxious catcalling of South America is absent; instead, every 10 steps you run into a new person and it's culturally unacceptable just to say hello. So you stop and time is quite irrelevant because it is more important to see your friend. Arusha is SUCH an international city. Liza and Nina went to a Serbian bd party and UN dinner the two nights before I came. I just got back from a pub with an Italian, sound engineers from NY, and some ex-pats living here and of course Liza. I've learned so much Swahili already! There's no way I will learn this much everyday! Our house is awesome (of course pics will come sometime soon) and we have two cats-Crispy Bacon and el Guapo, whom I have yet to see. Everyone is so nice-the Umoja people, the natives, and the ex-pats. The welcome here is unbelievable! Flights were uneventful besides long, though I must say it was nice to get real meals on a flight and inflatable pillows and Bose headphones were sleepguards with babies crying and what not! With two 8 hr flights I did something that is horrible for jetlag-I slept from 11 AM-5 PM yesterday making me that much more not tired last night and I finally fell asleep at 3 AM this morning (we didn't go to bed till 2:30). I was greeted with Chamomile tea of course accompanied by Zbee honey and fresh papaya, tangerine, banana, and watermelon. My housemate is awesome as are my bosses. One is from the states, 27, and just an incredible person. Very sad to see her go the 7th of Sept. (it's her house that we're living in). The other is from Madagascar and will be my boss for the non-profit work I do. I met her kids today as well-wonderful family and so cute.
The day began with Tanzanian breakfast which consists of Chai tea (which is also chai so it's chai chai) and chapati a delicious flatbread. We talked about the mission and structure of Umoja, which makes me love it that much more because they take the ignored tier of kids, the ones above the poorest of the poor, to give kids who can have a chance an opportunity instead of catering to those who already are supported by all the other non-profits. Hearing the story of how Liza (the director) needed something more than just teaching rich, white kids, and how it is something that they own and is shared, is truly a remarkable story. Ask me more if you want to. We then went and visited what would here be called a private school which really means instruction is in English, but still not comparative to any type of US school. No school is free here. 64/109 of the kids at that school are orphaned. A 4 floor building didn't have railings and one floor didn't even have a wall so it's just stairs suspended by the floors of each level.
Then we went to a local place for lunch which was ugali, a maize flour mixture, and was served with tilapia and a type of spinach, cabbage, and beans. Everything is eaten with the hands and yes, I washed my hands (as is standard) beforehand. I think I agree-food does taste better (and is at least more fun!) when eaten with the hands. Delicious food!
I fought the jetlag all day :) One of our neighbors just finished high school and speaks perfect English so he is going to give us Swahili lessons each morning. Janet, our maid I guess you could say, cooked us a DELICIOUS dinner. I saw the beautiful Mt. Meru today and a museum and met a ton of people and of course every step is a new sight. The beautiful trees and flowers, the people, the smell of burning (they burn everything here), but I should get to bed.
Life is good. Thank you to all who encouraged me to take this job. You're right-I'm not going to regret it!!!
Let me start by describing Arusha, the city where I am living. Even though it is a city, people say it is a small town because everyone knows everyone. It's a city but by no means westernized. People still wear the beautiful traditional clothing, which we are getting measured for tomorrow :):):), and yes, the typical image of women balancing baskets on their heads is completely true. However, the obnoxious catcalling of South America is absent; instead, every 10 steps you run into a new person and it's culturally unacceptable just to say hello. So you stop and time is quite irrelevant because it is more important to see your friend. Arusha is SUCH an international city. Liza and Nina went to a Serbian bd party and UN dinner the two nights before I came. I just got back from a pub with an Italian, sound engineers from NY, and some ex-pats living here and of course Liza. I've learned so much Swahili already! There's no way I will learn this much everyday! Our house is awesome (of course pics will come sometime soon) and we have two cats-Crispy Bacon and el Guapo, whom I have yet to see. Everyone is so nice-the Umoja people, the natives, and the ex-pats. The welcome here is unbelievable! Flights were uneventful besides long, though I must say it was nice to get real meals on a flight and inflatable pillows and Bose headphones were sleepguards with babies crying and what not! With two 8 hr flights I did something that is horrible for jetlag-I slept from 11 AM-5 PM yesterday making me that much more not tired last night and I finally fell asleep at 3 AM this morning (we didn't go to bed till 2:30). I was greeted with Chamomile tea of course accompanied by Zbee honey and fresh papaya, tangerine, banana, and watermelon. My housemate is awesome as are my bosses. One is from the states, 27, and just an incredible person. Very sad to see her go the 7th of Sept. (it's her house that we're living in). The other is from Madagascar and will be my boss for the non-profit work I do. I met her kids today as well-wonderful family and so cute.
The day began with Tanzanian breakfast which consists of Chai tea (which is also chai so it's chai chai) and chapati a delicious flatbread. We talked about the mission and structure of Umoja, which makes me love it that much more because they take the ignored tier of kids, the ones above the poorest of the poor, to give kids who can have a chance an opportunity instead of catering to those who already are supported by all the other non-profits. Hearing the story of how Liza (the director) needed something more than just teaching rich, white kids, and how it is something that they own and is shared, is truly a remarkable story. Ask me more if you want to. We then went and visited what would here be called a private school which really means instruction is in English, but still not comparative to any type of US school. No school is free here. 64/109 of the kids at that school are orphaned. A 4 floor building didn't have railings and one floor didn't even have a wall so it's just stairs suspended by the floors of each level.
Then we went to a local place for lunch which was ugali, a maize flour mixture, and was served with tilapia and a type of spinach, cabbage, and beans. Everything is eaten with the hands and yes, I washed my hands (as is standard) beforehand. I think I agree-food does taste better (and is at least more fun!) when eaten with the hands. Delicious food!
I fought the jetlag all day :) One of our neighbors just finished high school and speaks perfect English so he is going to give us Swahili lessons each morning. Janet, our maid I guess you could say, cooked us a DELICIOUS dinner. I saw the beautiful Mt. Meru today and a museum and met a ton of people and of course every step is a new sight. The beautiful trees and flowers, the people, the smell of burning (they burn everything here), but I should get to bed.
Life is good. Thank you to all who encouraged me to take this job. You're right-I'm not going to regret it!!!
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